Really early today we break camp (literally!) yand we eat for breakfast what we have left of food. We see Cristian at the camping reception (we see him there every hour of every day), so we go and offer him the milk powder (the kittens are grateful), and the backpack I brought with me from Buenos Aires.
11.20 am we leave from JAC bus terminal, and we pass by towns like Villarrica, San José, and others, while we eat a cheese bread we buy from a seller on the bus.
14.35 we arrive at Valdivia bus terminal, after 3 hours of travel. We find a Patagonia Donuts stand but we resist the temptation (those great donuts made out trip happier, when we went to Puerto Montt a few years back). On the first floor of the terminal we find the tourism office, and they offer us a map, and indicate us that on Carlos Anwandter street we’ll find lots of hostels and B&B.
With out bags on we go to the Bosque Nativo hostel, but there’s no vacancy, and same thing in other hostels. We didn’t see that coming. The prices vary from 30.000 to 44.000 clp, and some of them don’t accept credit cards, so we dismiss them right away. We pick the only one we can find for 30.000 clp the night: Hostal Anwandter.
Now we go to walk the streets and the waterfront of the Calle-Calle river. The style of the street reminds us a bit of Puerto Montt, with wooden houses, kind of rustic, with lots of cables passing from one sidewalk to the other, grasslands, areas that we can’t recognize if they’re really humble or is just the regular city architecture. Few people on the streets, probably cause Colo Colo is playing against Universidad de Chile (the local classic football match).
Along Esmeralda street (in the area that would be the “Bohemian Borough”) there’s plenty of bars to have a snack or dinner. While we wait in La Fuente Valdiviana our order of coffee and milk, hot chocolate, nut kuchen and cake, people is asking both snack and food. It’s 19.30 and it’s time for anything. When our meal arrives we notice that the cup of coffee and milk for Diego is just a cup of hot milk. Our faces of confusion give us away and the waiter comes and explain us that we should pour the instant coffee ourselves. Lesson learned.
The waterfront is the most attractive thing in the city, day and night, and there’s always people walking by, and running or practicing a sport.
At night we go to El Charrúa, to have something to eat, with the river on the view. We have a portion of rabas, noisette potatoes (or duchess, as they say) with ciboulette gravy, and a Kunstmann Torobayo beer, listening to old argentinian songs.
We are getting the feeling that the Kunstmann family is for Valdivia something like the Guinness to Dublin.